I felt like I had to include this foreward in my blog for many reasons. Firstly, I am a British fashion obsessive. I adore the eccentricity of London Fashion Week, the variety the of street style and the influence of street style on collections. If I had the talent I would have applied to study fashion in Central Saint Martins. In short, British fashion is my Shangri-la. Secondly, it's written by my favourite photographer of all time Nick Knight.
Gemma Ward photographed be Mr. Knight- Pure GENIUS!
And thirdly, it glorifies everything that is wrong with fashion, everything that's immoral and absolutely intoxicatingly brilliant about it.
OK, so here we go again...
I was recently told that one of Britain's most important fashion houses was originally established using profits from a brothel. Whether true or not, this anecdote sets the tone for understanding British fashion. The dominant cultural, intellectual and spiritual values in post-war British society are that of the Protestant faith. Based on Puritanism, the social characteristics that are admired are hard work and honesty, modesty and straightforwardness. Set against this, fashion is representative of all the worst human values: superficiality, vulgarity and narcissism.
However, as we all know from our physics lessons at school, every force has an equal and oppposite force acting against it. Rebellion against all these forces has fuelled British fashion. just as it has British music and British art. Perhaps inevitably, the dismissal by our intellectual and cultural establishment of fashion is much more pronounced than against the other mediums. British can feel worthy discussing and admiring art; we can understand the sense and feel the need to write about music in our Sunday papers; but to take fashion seriously, in all its ostentation and self obsession, feels just about as immoral and sinful as can be.
It is only when we realize the strength of the forces that are opposing fashion in Britain today that we truly see the strength and power in the work of designers like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh. Then do we start to understand the incredible beauty of their work, the messages they seek to convey, and consequently their cultural importance.
Fashion is, at its most basic, the very first communication we have with each other. There has never been a society in our history as humans that has not used some form of self adornment or self decoration to communicate who we are or what we want to be, our social status, our political beliefs, our sexual availability. In my own experience some of the fashion designers that our in this book have taken that basic human expression and performed a unique and enviable feat, transforming it into one of the most exciting, powerful and often misunderstood forms of art.
Nuff said. Oh Nick!